black anodized shanks.. a long term problem for your heads

[flozki]

hello
i see more and more damaged torque tubes when head comes in for repair.
the main reason is the black anodized shanks of NSH-2 styli. with the engraved numbers.
which is available since a few years.

the original neuman torque tube is anodized. the idea is to have a hardened surface.
the original neumann shank was regular soft aluminum .
if mounting the shank in the torque tube , the shank gets adapted and fits and hold perfectly.

now if both sides are anodized the stylus can destroy the torque tube. and every time you change a stylus
you destroy a little bit the torque tube.

unless some new styli producers come out this will remain a problem. i should be happy as it brings me customers...but i think problem should be solved at origin. and thats a good match between hard torque tube and soft shank.

i do not have a direct connection to adamant , but maybe someone on this forum has.


happy cutting.
f.

[farmersplow]

Hi,

I also noticed the problem. I use hard aluminum as the shaft holder (torsion tube). Although it is "hard" aluminium, it is too soft compared to the hard shaft. I've already had to replace the torsion bar twice because the shaft no longer sits 100% after being removed and installed several times.

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I then had good success with small amounts of Loctite 2701 screw lock. This screw lock is clear green and is rated "high strength". Nevertheless, the shaft can be removed again. The area of ​​the torsion tube must then of course be cleaned of the adhesive residue - with a small drill in the hole and with a scalpel on the surface.

2701.jpg

I use this method because I have had to remove and install the stylus 100 times due to multiple conversions of my cutting head. (I didn't want to replace the torque tube that often either).
Since the screw lock should dry for at least 12 hours, the process is not recommended for professional use. A repair of the torsion tube is certainly the better solution.

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Question: I understand that a softer shaft will accommodate better in the torque tube. But if the shaft is in the pipe for too long (when the cutting head is not used for a long time) can it still be removed?
And are there perhaps problems in regrinding the diamond (sapphire) because the shank is too soft?

Greetings from Austria
Thomas

[dmills]

Would hard anodising the torque tube help?
It is a small part, that should not be hard to set up.

Regards, Dan.

[farmersplow]

Would hard anodising the torque tube help?
It is a small part, that should not be hard to set up.

Regards, Dan.

Anodizing the torsion bar would not be difficult. But I'm afraid that the effect of deformable fitting to the shaft will then be lost. So the torsion bar would have to be drilled very precisely with a 1:10 conical reamer. Difficult but possible - I wrote a post about it. https://www.lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=9365

If the pitch of the torsion tube and the cone are not 100% matched, the aluminum cannot adapt due to the hardening of the surface and maybe the stylus falls out when cutting?!

Greetings from Austria
Thomas

[andybee]

the anodising is not the problem, replacing the torque tube another story...

[farmersplow]

the anodising is not the problem, replacing the torque tube another story...

...100% agree