Recordette good results and it limitations

This is where record cutters raise questions about cutting, and trade wisdom and experiment results. We love Scully, Neumann, Presto, & Rek-O-Kut lathes and Wilcox-Gay Recordios (among others). We are excited by the various modern pro and semi-pro systems, too, in production and development. We use strange, extinct disc-based dictation machines. And other stuff, too.

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Self-lather
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Recordette good results and it limitations

Post: # 3125Unread post Self-lather
Wed Jul 16, 2008 3:43 pm

Thanks to everyone who has assisted me in getting my Recordette up and running. I think the real issue I have been having was just the material I've been cutting to. I've been doing some hardcore testing, and here is what I've come up with:

CD-r's don't tend to sound that great. I tried plexiglass which looks really cool, but also doesn't sound that great. I tried some inkjet printable transparency paper which just shredded and wasn't playable. And finally, I tried the bottom side of a solo plate, which sounds remarkably pretty good!

After concluding that the Solo plate was my best option, I tried to improve the process a little. I've come up with a pretty good method for getting a much cleaner sound out of this little machine. Keep in mind, this is weird, but I swear it works!

I basically created a poor-mans version of what Peter King does. I didn't have any wax lubricant, so I used Pam cooking oil sprayed on the cut out bottom of a Solo plate. I then spread the cooking oil thin and evenly over the surface. I mounted a heating lamp (75 watt) over the cutting surface to help heat the disc as it cut. This really helps to clean up the quality of the sound!

Now obviously, the fidelity of the Recordette is limited. Does anyone know if this is a limitation of the amplifier, the recording head, or both?

-Thomas

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cuttercollector
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Post: # 3126Unread post cuttercollector
Wed Jul 16, 2008 4:08 pm

Yes, both.

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Steve E.
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Post: # 3135Unread post Steve E.
Fri Jul 18, 2008 3:55 pm

Solo plates cut much better on the dull side of them. And use the "regular" colors. Transparents and metalic colors aren't as good (though they look cool) and might even dull your styluses quicker.

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Steve E.
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Post: # 3136Unread post Steve E.
Fri Jul 18, 2008 3:56 pm

by the way....I don't know much about the recordette but you will definitely get better results with acetate blanks. And any of these experimental media have a risk of dulling your pricey cutting stylus!

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Self-lather
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Post: # 3166Unread post Self-lather
Wed Jul 23, 2008 1:42 pm

Is there a specific brand/source for acetates that you prefer? I'd like to try some blanks, they just seem so expensive! Of course i guess it would be worth it if I knew they sounded awesome.

-Thomas

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Steve E.
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Post: # 3167Unread post Steve E.
Wed Jul 23, 2008 3:19 pm

I'm only aware of one option, at least in the US, and that's Apollo.

I was having a conversation w/ emorritt and he was suggesting us enouraging Apollo to sell their rejects at a low price for the sake of us hobbyists. Maybe a topic for further discussion?

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blacknwhite
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Post: # 3187Unread post blacknwhite
Fri Jul 25, 2008 6:32 pm

Steve E. wrote:I'm only aware of one option, at least in the US, and that's Apollo.

I was having a conversation w/ emorritt and he was suggesting us enouraging Apollo to sell their rejects at a low price for the sake of us hobbyists. Maybe a topic for further discussion?
Count me in if the discount is reasonable enough. They may want to hold on to the metal cores so I don't know how much they'd be willing to discount, but if its like 33% off their 7-inches, heck yeah I'd buy some.

- Bob

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potholeskinny
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Post: # 8030Unread post potholeskinny
Sat Feb 27, 2010 6:55 pm

Has anybody tried using a Recordette to cut onto blank vinyl? Would that significantly dull the Stylii? I recently purchased a Recordette which will be restored by Gib at West Tech. In the meantime, I'm looking at options for blanks. I got a decent quote from Erika Records for pressing blank (no groove) vinyl. I would like to go with that option, but I don't know the limitations of the Recordette yet. Of course I will do some tests and learn the machine before I place a large order of blank vinyl.. Anyway, just wanted to see if anybody had some input on this. Thanks!!
Perhaps Transparent Records
http://perhapstransparentrecords.com

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buckettovsissors
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Post: # 8119Unread post buckettovsissors
Wed Mar 10, 2010 4:42 pm

Ive tried it, it doesnt work that good, lots of surface noise.
BUT I only used a sharp steel needle that had never been used, didnt feel like risking my saphire.

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Post: # 8120Unread post potholeskinny
Wed Mar 10, 2010 4:59 pm

Is it possible to use other stylii on a Recordette besides the steel? Mine is still in the shop, so I haven't been able to get that far with it. Also.. what about diamond? Is that crazy talk?

I found a local plastic dealer that is cutting some Lexan blanks. Will I also get alot of surface noise? Is the Apollo Lacquers the best bet with the Recordette steel stylii?
Perhaps Transparent Records
http://perhapstransparentrecords.com

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emorritt
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Post: # 8121Unread post emorritt
Wed Mar 10, 2010 5:41 pm

Recordettes generally don't have enough downbearing to cut hard materials. Since the pickup cartridge is used as the cutting cartridge as well, it doesn't have the extra weight of an X-26, M-41 or other small cutter. There also really isn't an adjustment for tracking pressure - cutting or playback on a Recordette. Steel cutting needles (actual steel cutters like from the 1940's not sharpened phonograph needles ala Peter King) don't retain their point as well as stellite (which is a slightly harder metal) or sapphire/"ruby". Plastic will always be slightly noisy because of the hardness so if you want a really good recording pick up some lacquers. For hobbiests, I'd recommend getting some unrecorded lacquers from eBay. If the surface is in good shape, i.e. it's not peeling off or crazed with age, you can cut a very good recording even on a dried out blank. Heating may help, but you have to remember that heating is from the days of wax not lacquer or plastic. Heating probably increases the softness of plastic blanks, but not to the degree that they'll record just like a lacquer, new or old.

I suggested the sale of 'rejects', but I highly doubt Apollo will sell them to anyone. I think they boil the coating off and re-coat defective disks.

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Post: # 8122Unread post piaptk
Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:30 am

Early on in my cutting career, I bought a LOT of old, blank lacquers from eBay. There were a handful that I would get that sounded really good, but about 60% sounded crappy. Even some that looked good. Plus, you have to read the description really closely and ask questions. Ones that are listed as being "in good shape" actually have bubbles, jacket scruff, marks, etc.

I've stopped buying them altogether. They ended up being about half the price of a good, new, lacquer, and only 25% of them kinda usable.

But, Gib does sell some old, decent lacquers for I think $5. Ask him for the metal based ones, because the cardboard discs I got from him were mediocre at best.
I Buy/Sell/Restore Vintage Machines/Parts and Provide Phone/In Person Tech Support
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emorritt
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Post: # 8127Unread post emorritt
Thu Mar 11, 2010 2:13 pm

Yeah it's hard to filter out the blanks on eBay that aren't so good because most sellers have no clue what they have, other than searching for the brand name on the label online and discovering what it is. And as piaptk pointed out some even in good shape don't sound so good because they're simply too dry. But most old, scuffed lacquers in fair shape aside from some surface noise caused by the imperfections would generally sound better than picnic plates, especially with a decent cutting stylus. Noise and bad recorded results can be a combination of what you're recording on and the condition of your cutting needle as well. And don't bother with fibre (cardboard) base blanks as they're usually warped and won't cut a consistent groove at all. As lacquer shrinks on a metal base, it tears and cracks. As it shrinks on cardboard, it pulls one way or another and warps the substrate. It sometimes cracks, but is far more likely to warp or become 'crazed' with age on cardboard disks.

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buckettovsissors
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Post: # 8139Unread post buckettovsissors
Sat Mar 13, 2010 6:15 am

I use the stellite or saphire stylii to (I think thats what you would call it) emboss cds. I just turn the stylii around 180 degrees from normal position.
depending on the recordplayer you might have to change the tracking or weight of the cartrage but their is no or very little surface noise.

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