After a a long-lasting, interesting, and sometimes discontented ownership of this beauty (Like the time the Motor Capstan screw came loose causing the rotor to drop and Jam!!) We're now divorced, I had sought to use her outside of her design parameters as a Lathe Drive, but truth to tell, in spite of having a reasonably powerful motor she wasn't really up to the job, so we have now decided to call it a day and have gone our separate ways. The astute and knowledgable will instantly recognise this as one of the highly regarded, and possibly best Idler Drive Turntables ever made, the eponymous Garrard 401. She has been supplanted as the object of my affection and traded in for a new squeeze, namely :- I don't need to point out that this baby has far more stamina, and should be more than willing to do stuff beyond simple playback I.E. be a useful tool for making musical grooves appear in blank discs te he! After reading on the forum, glowing reports by Tragwag, Sillitoe, and others, and avidly following the discussion on the "Technics Hype" thread, I sought out an SP10 and was pleased when the vendor was happy to do a Part/Ex trade. So for a minimal cash outlay + the Garrard 401 I'm now the owner of an SP10 c/w the SH10 Power Supply Module and a Heavy Gauge Cast Metal Plinth. It runs on all three speeds as smooth a silk, is totally quiet, and has some serious poke. I know I shouldn't have been suprised by the poke, but it was still satisfying to find that its capabilities have not been exagerated, and if anything may have been understated. Unfortunately though, it has come with the cost of some cosmetic issues that I'm finding a real Ball-ache. The SH10 P.S.M. also has a minor/niggling issue which I will come to in a later post. To the matter in hand, in places the Lacquer finish on the Chassis Top Deck Plate is blistering and the aluminium underneath has an "Oxidisation Bloom" a sort of Aluminium Rust if you will (Yes I know Ferrous Metals Rust, but I'm searching for the correct terminology and I don't know how best to describe it!) Have any owners of SP10s or SL1200s and its variants had these sorts of issues, and how have you dealt with them? It would be really useful to know which (If any) is the best treatment and remedy. I have used Nitro-Mors, a U.K. proprietary paint and varnish remover in an attempt to help remove the Lacquer, but even after prolonged application it won't touch the Lacquer, which steadfastly refuses to soften. It's as hard a diamonds, and I have a sneaking suspicion that it may not actually be Lacquer, but may be a ceramic/glass like substance, which could have been baked onto the Chassis Top Deck Plate during the manufacturing process and prior to full assembly. A high speed Brass Wire brush used in a Dremel type Multi-Tool has proved to be equally ineffective at removing this coating too. I won't use a Steel Wire Wheel in the Dremel Tool even though I've got plenty of them, for fear of gouging into the soft Aluminium. The only thing so far that's worked, is using an abrasive sheet by hand but as I said it's a complete and utter Ball-ache. Any tips, hints, or recommendations of other Proven methods of doing this re-finishing would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Soulbear
Soulbear
