souri's blanks
Moderators: piaptk, tragwag, Steve E., Aussie0zborn
souri's blanks
A while back a friend gave me a number of souri's blanks to try
anyway finaly got round to testing them started with a steel MSS stylus
gently heated the disc with 40w bulb prior to cutting,
I was really pleased with the cut very little surface noise and good quality
reproduction - far better than any of the previous none acetate discs Iv'e tried,
but am I correct in saying that souri does not sell blanks to none vinylrecorder owners???
emidisc
anyway finaly got round to testing them started with a steel MSS stylus
gently heated the disc with 40w bulb prior to cutting,
I was really pleased with the cut very little surface noise and good quality
reproduction - far better than any of the previous none acetate discs Iv'e tried,
but am I correct in saying that souri does not sell blanks to none vinylrecorder owners???
emidisc
- subkontrabob
- Posts: 284
- Joined: Fri Oct 30, 2009 5:40 am
- Location: Helsinki, Finland
MSS was a british disk cutting lathe and lacquer manufacturer. There is a thread somewhere with pictures of a MSS lathe. Seems like they had a complete product line with everything needed for record cutting.piaptk wrote:What is a steel MSS stylus?
https://lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?t=2238&mforum=lathetrolls
https://lathetrolls.com/viewtopic.php?t=1826&highlight=mss&mforum=lathetrolls
Steel styli used to be popular, probably because in those days the fidelity was limited rather by the rest of the cutting head than the stylus material.
I've made a few cuts with steel styli (normal groove), and must say that it sounds surprisingly good.
@emidisc: do you cut normal groove? is the cutterhead also MSS?
forgive me when you ask "do you cut normal groove?" not sure I understand?
my lathe & cutterhead is BSR circa 1947
recently obtained a replacement cutterhead (like new!)
with it came 12 unused MSS steel stylus - they cut very well,
is it possible to heat a steel stylus I understand nichrome cannot be wound
directly onto stylus??????
emidisc
my lathe & cutterhead is BSR circa 1947
recently obtained a replacement cutterhead (like new!)
with it came 12 unused MSS steel stylus - they cut very well,
is it possible to heat a steel stylus I understand nichrome cannot be wound
directly onto stylus??????
emidisc
Yes I'm in that too , can apply heat on a steel stylus ? and how do it ? , but represents that MSS steel stylus is for do cutting or embossing ? and most important , heat a stylus for emboss is senseless ?
I'm embossing PVC with a Presto 1C on a 6N overhead , and the results are very very near of be really good , definitively the angle in the Peter King's video was be the key. with the 1C not so extreme angle , but much better results in that way.
Best Regards
Mani
I'm embossing PVC with a Presto 1C on a 6N overhead , and the results are very very near of be really good , definitively the angle in the Peter King's video was be the key. with the 1C not so extreme angle , but much better results in that way.
Best Regards
Mani
Very Busy days , some cutting works at least , soon online again
We must promote the use and abuse of vinyl records.
We must promote the use and abuse of vinyl records.
Hi,emidisc wrote:forgive me when you ask "do you cut normal groove?" not sure I understand?
my lathe & cutterhead is BSR circa 1947
recently obtained a replacement cutterhead (like new!)
with it came 12 unused MSS steel stylus - they cut very well,
is it possible to heat a steel stylus I understand nichrome cannot be wound
directly onto stylus??????
emidisc
Back when I was experimenting with making my own steel cutting styli, I was able to wrap nichrome wire around the steel shank and get it to heat up quite well.
http://home.comcast.net/~markrob1066/site/?/page/Cutting_Stylii/&PHPSESSID=aafbf97d0ece4c2bae5ec670435cbece
You would not expect it to work for obvious reasons, but I got decent results this way. I was using Duco cement to attach the heating coil to the shank. This is a nitrocellulose based cement and I chose it since its inexpensive, drys quickly, is easy to remove, and is made of the same basic material as the blanks I was cutting. I would run up the heater current to the point that the cement would start to smoke a bit. I think this had the effect of forming an insulation barrier between coil and the shank. I would say to give it a try. I can't see that there is any harm.
I'm not sure I see an advantage to using heat when embossing, but it might be interesting to experiment. You might just stumble on to some benefits. Perhaps it would allow you to emobss a deeper groove without using much downard force. When you increase the force, you reach a point where you stop embossing and start cutting or tearing into the base material (not good). That seems to set the limit on embossing depth.
Mark