The Secret Society of Lathe Trolls

That's definitely a Polish head. The last pic with the text is from the old eBay listing.

What I find odd is that people who scam with new products (heads, lathes etc) are really choosing a very small audience for their scams. If I were to scam people with bad products, I would do it on a larger markets. 3D printers, or similar. EDIT: To GalviTed's defense, I don't think he was always a ...

Now that is weird. The stuff on Angulo Record's site seems to be reasonably well made, and that head sort of looks like the one that mounts on Angulo's lathes, but is clearly a hillbilly version of it.

Coins, are they for added weight? Weight = quality to some people.

Hope you get it sorted out.

I've seen that base before. Apparently there was a complete record plant in Nigeria, non-operational for 20 years and covered in dust.

Yes - good job, Steve, and thanks for creating a wońderful forum! I think I first visited this place in 2008 or 2009, although I registered later. I was interested in getting a lathe, but I always talked myself out of it. But I couldn't keep out, and now I have several hundred KG's of American made ...

Russia strikes again: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRESTO-CUTTING-LATHE/281718436746?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31236%26meid%3D4ecf6e97e4154edd943208d782cf168f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D121675610257&rt=nc At least the floor looks...

To the rest: I'll get down to scanning the stuff ASAP.

Hi Peter,

I had totally forgot about this thread. I uploaded my scanned Capps schematics here:

http://www.virtalahde.com/CAPPS_schematics.zip

Hope they're of use.

Deke Dickerson wrote:Kiitos! (Been to Finland many times)

Ole hyvä!

I'll take a couple of photos of what I have and PM them to you.

If you need a relay box + other parts, I have one from a 601 lathe. No idea if it's of any use for a 501..

Yeah, now that I look at it, the feedback wasn't done in the DAW. But the constant velocity EQ was for sure done there, I have some plots from attempts of linearizing the head. Horror, I tell you!

One thing I have not even hooked up yet is the depth automation. The Pitch13 system obviously has one, and my Westrex amps are of the later model that provides a depth control input. I'm going to try out how those two communicate between each other - as far as I understand, controlling the depth by ...

Very cool, the DAW based feedback sounds interesting... Any more info would be great, are you still in contact with the seller? The modifications were not done by the seller, it was all earlier work. Here's a quick and lousy shot of the system plan - not all of it was completed: http://www.virtalah...

Oh, and I have quite a bit of removed Scully parts if anyone needs them. Mechanical stuff, relay box, power supply..

Thanks, guys! I made a small typo - I've been working on this for a little over 2 years, so it has not been as slow as I originally thought! Here's what it looked like right after arrival: http://www.virtalahde.com/oldscully1.jpg http://www.virtalahde.com/oldscully3.jpg The Capps system was gutted a...

Some of you have seen these already. I've been working on it on and off for the past 3 years, and right now it's at the state I've been doing unmodulated test cuts with it. Things seem to be good. I have the Westrex 1700A amps (not in the pic since they're on my desk), which I have also went through...

I bought my Scully lathe from him and had zero problems.

EDIT: I did email him a couple of weeks back for something else, and haven't heard of him. Hope he's OK.

Hi Joe, good to see you here! Four years ago I was pondering the same exact question here: http://repforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php?topic=33809.0 The best advice I got came from Paul Gold: "I say jump in with both set or don't jump" So I ditched the idea of anything cheaper and bought myself a Scu...

Just came across this on one of my favourite websites, could be some nice ideas for a DIY overhead:

http://sound.westhost.com/project132.htm

I would first scrub it with something softer, like a toothbrush. Then get rougher if there is a stubborn piece of rust.